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                                                Listen to the song about her! 
DD3d2.jpg (13280 bytes) Daydream Prototype 
Building Notes
LCB2-08.jpg (10169 bytes)
DDcutsides1.jpg (20214 bytes) The 2 sheets that make the sides are cut in a stack, good sides facing each other. The factory edge of a third sheet acts as a saw guide. 8" is cut off both edges per drawing. daydreamlayout.gif (8244 bytes)

Saw tip for making straight cuts:

It's good to get to know your circular saw. If you measure from the edge of your base plate to the oposite edge of your blade teeth (or measure to a cut kerf) you will always know how far back to clamp you saw guide to get it to cut in exactly the right place. No line need be drawn or snapped either. Just "tick" marks on the edges showing where to clamp your guide strip. A mentor of mine once commented "Your saw can't see all those pretty pictures you're drawing you know." Of course curves are a different story...
DDcutsides3.jpg (19142 bytes) Using one of those 8" strips as a saw guide the angle cut across the sheets to make the sides taper is cut.
DDscarfsides2.jpg (10109 bytes) The sides are scarffed with 3" wide 1/4" ply butt blocks. I used Tightbond II and 1/2" staples as clamps. The a bunch of weights to make sure.
DDgluerails1.jpg (14196 bytes) I'm gluing the gunnels, or rub rails, on the sides before the sides are bent. This is a bit unconventional, but it works. The plan in groups is to use PL Premium glue and #14 7/8" bronze ring nails. In this case I'm using Tightbond II without fasteners, and instead putting almost every clamp I have on them. 

I glued the internal chine logs on the same way.

DDglueframe.jpg (23027 bytes) I concluded after feedback from Brian Schmittling that I would do conventional frames and gussets rather than the overlapping triangles shown in the drawings.
DDbowglue.jpg (58055 bytes) Where those frame triangles were,  I did the same "rotating triangles" trick I used on Summer Breeze. This freed up some more ply to be used in other ways. I once again used Tightbond II and 1/2" staples for clamps.
DDstem2.jpg (4915 bytes) The stem is from a piece of 2x4. In this case cypress.

I left mine beefy so I could have an old fashioned bit at the bow with a hefty hole for a painter. (Can anyone tell me why lines tied to boats are called painters?)

DDstem7.jpg (4762 bytes)
DDstemglue1.jpg (11176 bytes)

The stem is dry fit to a side with drywall screws through little 1/4" ply pads.

DDtransglue.jpg (32993 bytes) So I glued the frame around the transom.

Now I could have used ring nails again, but I'm trying to get my money's worth out of all the clamps. 

Isn't it great. If you stick with this boat building thing, no one will ever have to wonder what to buy you for birthdays and holidays ever again! My kingdom for a clamp!!

DDsidebend1.jpg (13696 bytes) DDsidebend3.jpg (11951 bytes) DDsidebend8.jpg (18686 bytes)

She's starting to look like a boat now!

DDJnM.jpg (13016 bytes) Julie and Mocha drop in to celebrate three dimensionality! (Julie's holding the paper model.)
DDtransdry.jpg (14515 bytes)  So I've slipped the bottom under her and dry fit her transom. I also am using a shower curtain rod to act as an adjustable to spreader, instead of a forward frame at the moment.

NOTE: It's a good practice to temporarily attach a cross piece at the top of your frame(s) - you can just make the sides long so they "run wild" above the gunnels and dry wall screw a 1x2 or larger spreader/brace to them. 

DDtransarch.jpg (18360 bytes) With three clamps and a dowel I draw the arch in the transom.
skiffjig6.jpg (14521 bytes)

Building Tip:
Indecision is the mother of invention...

This might be more a designing tip, but this frame jig of a square of plywood with some slots and carriage bolts and wing nuts allows you to alter the beam and flare of a hull without rebuilding anything. It works really well. I made it because I was unsure of the frame dimensions - turns out I left them as I had drawn them - but it is reusable!

skiffjig7.jpg (10796 bytes)
Even though I used the jig above,  I would bend the sides around the middle frame then added frame 1 and 3. I used 1x3s and ply gussets. They fall 57", 104", and 151.5" from the bow - measured along center line.
(I'll try to get the measurements for marking the sides while flat, but for now all I have are the center line positions.)
DDtransom.gif (6472 bytes) DDframe1.gif (4762 bytes) DDframe2.gif (4742 bytes) DDframe3.gif (4747 bytes)
Daydream is on hold for now, as a couple of other boats call, but I'll keep you posted!
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Daydream Skiff design copyright David J. Beede 2002