October 10th - Day Three
Okay, here's what's up
today. I decided it best to fit the full sheet of ply on the back and see how
much of the hull it covered.
Here I'm lining up the ply
with the transom.
Now I mark where it falls on
the bow. This showed me I needed to alter the size of the triangles, and also
shift the transom 3/4" forward before gluing.
Then I removed the dry fit
stem.
Rounded it on my router that
I've mounted flush in a bench top. I use a carbide 1/2" radius corner round
bit. I put a bead of PL Premium down the grooves slid the sides into place and
tacked them with 1/2" staples until the glue grabs. (I almost glued it on
upside down. That would have been a big oops!)
I
also removed the dry fit stern after having marked the bottom angle on it. I
shaved that angle with a plane. Here I've clamped stops to help
align it while gluing.
Here
it is glued and nailed. I used #12 by 1 1/4" bronze ring nails, about two
inches apart - seven nails per side. I pre- drilled for the nails.
Chine logs....
First a confession.
You know how sometimes when you make one thing simpler, you may two things more
complicated? Well it looks like I might have done that. I love this slotted stem
for the ease of gluing sides and for the nice curved cut water you can make with
little effort. However, it turns out that the chine logs and the gunwales now
have to have a compound angle cut on them to fit the stem. So here's a choice
point for you. You can use a normal internal stem sawn at 27 degrees, and skip
this compound angle stuff or you can do what I did. Get out your bevel gauge.
First you measure this angle
of sides to stem
and mark the chine.
Then mark this angle of the
sides into the stem.
And mark it on the
chine log.
Then cut it with your saw of
choice. (I love these Japanese pull saws)
Then dry clamp the chine log
in place.
If it fits pre drill
for the #14 by 7/8" bronze ring nails every 6"s.
Unclamp half the chine log,
apply glue and re-clamp and hammer the nails home. Hold a sledge or heavy weight
behind where you hammer as a "bucking iron." It absorbs the impact of
your hammer and makes it all much easier.
Do the same to the other
side.
Now cut the triangles
from the back sheet of ply. In spite of my careful drawings and models it seems
the long leg will work better at 30" instead of 28" that I originally
indicated. The short leg is still 12".
I use the Japanese pull saw
again for this.
Next I'll position
these on the bow and mark them for gluing the butt blocks.
This would all be a bit
faster if I wasn't working out the design as I do the building. I'm sure the
next one will go faster.
I also worked on the sail
rig and the leeboard and rudder. Here's a glimpse of my sketch so far.
On
to Day Four!...
